When I arrived in Milan, I had no idea what to expect; I wasn't planning to stay there at all, so I had read nothing about the place. It turns out to be a one hit wonder with respect to tourist attractions. There is the Duomo, a huge cathedral that is definitely cool. However, is this reason enough to visit Milan? Nope. However, if there is one reason to visit, it is for the Milanese version of Happy Hour. I can't imagine a better Happy Hour anywhere and I am glad I got to partake each of the three nights I was there.
The deal is this: every bar/restaurant in the city participates to varying degrees, charging between 7 and 10 Euros for each drink, no matter what you order (mixed drinks, beer, wine) and here's the kicker...there is a free buffet to go along with a single drink order. So, effectively, you can eat your fill and have a drink for as little as 7 Euros. Obviously, some places put on a better spread than others, but with a little looking around, you can eat some really awesome food (and plenty of it!) for almost nothing. This was a great help to the old wallet, and I spent less than 30 Euro a day while there, including my hostel. Considering how much I spent in some other places, this was a downright steal!
It's still not worth a trip to Milan though. If you happen to be there, check it out. But, don't go checking out airfares just for this.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
Madrid museums
Carolyn and I walked around the Prado yesterday during its late afternoon free hours and took in some culture. I´m not big on museums, but did go to the Louvre while in Paris and spent the requisite time in the Prado. However, there is one museum that I love, here in Spain. It´s not big on history or art or culture, but what it lacks in typical museum appeal, it more than makes up for in atmosphere. Of all of the museums in Madrid, my hands-down favorite is the Museo de Jamon. Ah yes, the Museum of Ham is most fantastic. They have the best sandwiches for cheap and 1E beers. A definite score. Standing at the counter with locals and tourists alike, everyone is treated to the sights of curing meats hanging from the ceiling and all kinds of offerings, centered around (but not wholly including) many varieties of Spanish hams. Museo de Jamon is one museum where I will never turn down a visit.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Sunday Soiree
A couple of months before we left for our trip, I read an article in the New York Times about a phenomenon called the Sunday Soiree here in Paris. It began many years ago and was a time for artists and thinkers to get together and eat and drink and talk and exchange ideas. There are still a few long-running Sunday soirees following in this tradition here in Paris. One of the most well known, is at Jim Haynes' house in the 14 arr in Paris, quite close to where I happen to be staying. So, I made reservations and Scott, Allison, Carolyn and I made our way to Jim's house to meet him and 46 other strangers to share dinner and exchange ideas. It was a lot of fun!
There were a few very odd people, a handful of "regulars," people from all over the US, France and some other European countries. The "official" language of the night is English, so it was easy for us all to talk to the guests and I enjoyed chatting with quite a few. Some of our new friends made their way with us to a bar afterward in the shadow of Notre Dame cathedral.
While there, I was talking to a couple of guys sitting next to us at the bar, and then noticed a big commotion just to my right. I turned and saw a woman lying on the floor in the midst of a seizure. It seemed no one knew what to do, but (surprisingly), my First Aid training came back to me almost instantly, even though I haven't had a refresher course in years! I have to hand it to those American Red Cross classes...they really do prepare you for these situations. Luckily, the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes of someone calling, and the woman was beginning to come out of it already. She was upset and scared and I did what I could to reassure her and remind her that she was in a bar and had had a seizure. Her boyfriend was with her and seemed so grateful for the help because I think he had a bit to drink and was a little in shock on top of that.
After the girl was taken away in the ambulance, we realized that the Metro had stopped running, so we were stuck with either walking home, or taking a cab. Before deciding, Carolyn and I decided that the end of a very crazy night called for a crepe. However, no such luck, as even the late-night creperies were closing. We did find a Greek place, still serving up french fries and shwarma though. And, with our love of the French fry, we settled on that, then found a cab to take us back home, marking the end of a very strange night, Paris-style.
There were a few very odd people, a handful of "regulars," people from all over the US, France and some other European countries. The "official" language of the night is English, so it was easy for us all to talk to the guests and I enjoyed chatting with quite a few. Some of our new friends made their way with us to a bar afterward in the shadow of Notre Dame cathedral.
While there, I was talking to a couple of guys sitting next to us at the bar, and then noticed a big commotion just to my right. I turned and saw a woman lying on the floor in the midst of a seizure. It seemed no one knew what to do, but (surprisingly), my First Aid training came back to me almost instantly, even though I haven't had a refresher course in years! I have to hand it to those American Red Cross classes...they really do prepare you for these situations. Luckily, the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes of someone calling, and the woman was beginning to come out of it already. She was upset and scared and I did what I could to reassure her and remind her that she was in a bar and had had a seizure. Her boyfriend was with her and seemed so grateful for the help because I think he had a bit to drink and was a little in shock on top of that.
After the girl was taken away in the ambulance, we realized that the Metro had stopped running, so we were stuck with either walking home, or taking a cab. Before deciding, Carolyn and I decided that the end of a very crazy night called for a crepe. However, no such luck, as even the late-night creperies were closing. We did find a Greek place, still serving up french fries and shwarma though. And, with our love of the French fry, we settled on that, then found a cab to take us back home, marking the end of a very strange night, Paris-style.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
The Irish diet
Now in London, Carolyn and I made our way through Dublin in a few short days and I don't feel like I have to go back there. I liked it well enough, but really, how many French fries can one person eat in a 24 hour period? Well, I think I now have an answer to that question. After eating "chips" at breakfast, lunch and dinner, I have fulfilled my lifelong dream of consuming my body weight in French fries. Sweet. However, to offset all of that fat, I tried to eat away at it with alcohol, and consumed a comparable amount Jameson Irish whiskey. I'm now an "official" Jameson taster, with a certificate and everything. I went on the Jameson tour and was one of the lucky few picked to taste the differences between scotch, Irish whisky and American whisky. I lied and said the Jameson was the best, even though I'm a Jack Daniels girl to the end.
Carolyn has her own stories about black and white pudding...which is not actually pudding consistency, but that's really the least of your worries when consuming it! At least in London I've had a few vegetables (and less whiskey, but not necessarily less booze.) Now that we're on our way to Paris, I forsee the Jameson to be replaced with red wine. It's chock full of antioxidents and therefore, qualifies as a health food in my mind.
Carolyn has her own stories about black and white pudding...which is not actually pudding consistency, but that's really the least of your worries when consuming it! At least in London I've had a few vegetables (and less whiskey, but not necessarily less booze.) Now that we're on our way to Paris, I forsee the Jameson to be replaced with red wine. It's chock full of antioxidents and therefore, qualifies as a health food in my mind.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Budget airlines
My newest travel obsession is European budget airlines. We don't have such a thing in the states and since I haven't spent much time in Europe, I've only used them occasionally. However, now that Carolyn and I are finally getting around to planning our itinerary, I can't believe the deals I've found. I just booked flights for us from Barcelona to Marrakesh, then from Tangiers to Milan for ZERO Euros each for each actual flight. Seriously. ZERO!!! Nada. Zilch. Nothing for the flight. There is a slight catch of having to pay booking fees and for any checked luggage. However, even after that, when converted back to dollars, each flight is only about $28 each. That's ridiculous.
We're paying less than a tank of gas for each flight to go from Spain to Morocco, then Morocco to Italy. I have no idea how they make money and as long as we (and our luggage) get there okay, I don't really care. Maybe they're using the plane as a really big drug mule. Or to transport nuclear waste. Maybe they're shipping prisoners from Gitmo to some other secret location. Who cares? This is what's making it possible for us to see so many places and stay for so long on really limited funds. Sweet. Maybe I won't have to pimp out Carolyn after all.
We're paying less than a tank of gas for each flight to go from Spain to Morocco, then Morocco to Italy. I have no idea how they make money and as long as we (and our luggage) get there okay, I don't really care. Maybe they're using the plane as a really big drug mule. Or to transport nuclear waste. Maybe they're shipping prisoners from Gitmo to some other secret location. Who cares? This is what's making it possible for us to see so many places and stay for so long on really limited funds. Sweet. Maybe I won't have to pimp out Carolyn after all.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
My own stimulus plan...
I came back to the states in mid-November, after spending a great 8 months overall in Morocco, to the worst economic crisis of my life. Sweet. I got to enter the job market as someone who hadn't worked or networked in a year, up against some stiff competition and unsure of what I wanted to do with my life, career-wise. After hitting up every online resume site and spamming everyone I knew with a plea for a job through whatever means necessary, I realized it just wasn't going to happen. I went on a handful of interviews and found that I was way over-qualified for every job offer I received. I was looking for something to do with my life, some way to have meaning, and was just getting depressed and feeling worthless. I was rejected from pretty much every job I actually wanted and also didn't get into the graduate program at Tufts that I applied to. So...what to do now.
It was around that time that I was driving to the gym with my cousin, Carolyn, when I asked her if she was interested in going away on a trip after her forthcoming college graduation. Carolyn and I have been spending a lot of time together lately, since I returned home from Morocco and she's fantastic. I can easily imagine myself traveling with her, as we get along so well and I really love her company. So, we decided then and there that we'd leave for Europe shortly after her graduation and I would find a job post-haste that I could work in the interim to earn some much needed cash. I was stressing before about just taking any job that I knew I would hate and falling into the same situation I was in before I left my last job. I imagined I would take some position that was way too easy for me, that I found boring, that I would get stuck in and my drive to excel would leave. Now though, when I had a plan and plane tickets to leave in the near future, I could take a job...any job, and do something besides apply to all of these jobs I knew I didn't want, while I worried about getting older and still not doing anything I could be proud of in this world.
So, now I have a job at a well-known patent law firm in downtown Boston, where I make decent money, covering for someone on paternity leave. It's just database management stuff and pretty dry, but at least I have a reason to get up every day and SOMETHING to look forward to in my life.
Our plan originally was to go for two months and make up our journey as we went along, going from place to place on a whim and seeing where we ended up. That's still mostly the plan, although a list of things I want to do and see has taken shape over the last few weeks. Also, I decided that maybe 2 months is not really long enough. Maybe I'll stay over there indefinitely. Why not? Me, a backpack and some great company for a couple of months, then hopefully meet some new people and check out some cool places after that on my own. Right now, I'm trying to remain flexible and just take each day as it comes. C'est la vie and all that!
It was around that time that I was driving to the gym with my cousin, Carolyn, when I asked her if she was interested in going away on a trip after her forthcoming college graduation. Carolyn and I have been spending a lot of time together lately, since I returned home from Morocco and she's fantastic. I can easily imagine myself traveling with her, as we get along so well and I really love her company. So, we decided then and there that we'd leave for Europe shortly after her graduation and I would find a job post-haste that I could work in the interim to earn some much needed cash. I was stressing before about just taking any job that I knew I would hate and falling into the same situation I was in before I left my last job. I imagined I would take some position that was way too easy for me, that I found boring, that I would get stuck in and my drive to excel would leave. Now though, when I had a plan and plane tickets to leave in the near future, I could take a job...any job, and do something besides apply to all of these jobs I knew I didn't want, while I worried about getting older and still not doing anything I could be proud of in this world.
So, now I have a job at a well-known patent law firm in downtown Boston, where I make decent money, covering for someone on paternity leave. It's just database management stuff and pretty dry, but at least I have a reason to get up every day and SOMETHING to look forward to in my life.
Our plan originally was to go for two months and make up our journey as we went along, going from place to place on a whim and seeing where we ended up. That's still mostly the plan, although a list of things I want to do and see has taken shape over the last few weeks. Also, I decided that maybe 2 months is not really long enough. Maybe I'll stay over there indefinitely. Why not? Me, a backpack and some great company for a couple of months, then hopefully meet some new people and check out some cool places after that on my own. Right now, I'm trying to remain flexible and just take each day as it comes. C'est la vie and all that!
Friday, October 17, 2008
post-Ramadan updates
Much has happened since last I wrote. For one, Ramadan has finally ended and along with it, fasting. Hooray!! To celebrate, I went to Spain for a few days with some friends for a few days. School was closed for five days, coinciding with the holiday at the end of Ramadan, Eid al-Fitr.
We stayed at a couple of hostels in Madrid, a new experience for me. So, call me spoiled, but I'm in love with the idea of having an actual toilet within the confines of my hotel room and the concept of bunk beds for adults is not something I understand. These two things seem to be the entire reason for hostels to exist. Granted, at an average of 20 E a night, the price was good for a single traveler. I was with a bunch of much younger kids, and I don't think they caught onto the idea of pooling money to get a nice hotel room and sharing it (without strangers) for the same price we each paid at said bunk bed laden hostel. I, personally, would have gladly paid more not to share my bedroom with unknown wackos. I prefer sticking with the wackos I already know.
One example of unknown wacko behavior happened to my friend Tia, who awoke to one of our roommates, a guy from Iran, stroking her face. Um...creepy anyone? Seriously, if I woke up to some crazy dude STROKING my face as I slept, there would have been some serious explaining to do (probably by me, after being arrested for attacking said face stroker). Who knows, maybe he did stroke my face, but got no response since that was the night I tried absinthe and was pretty numb to the world. (For those of you who don't know, absinthe became illegal in the US and most of Europe in 1915 and has only recently been legalized.) Some recent bottlers of absinthe claim 82% alcohol content and I'm would not have been surprised if I sampled from one of those bottles. I think I might have done some permanent damage to my throat, as apparently absinthe is made up of some otherworldly ingredients that have the ability to change the chemical make-up of your body, turning your throat into actual fire. Not just a burning sensation, but it creates actual FIRE in your body. I don't have any idea how those crazy Romantic poets from the 1800s like William Blake used to down the stuff night after night, but I found nothing romantic about it and have no plans for repeat performances, believe me!
While there, in between face stroking and absinthe drinking, I did most of the usual touristy things like visiting the Prado (by the way, Goya is a shitty painter), eating lots of Manchego cheese, chorizo (as there's no pork in Morocco for the most part) and drinking lots of non-Moroccan red wine. Ah, heaven!
Tia, Halima and I went to Toledo for the day on a high speed train (220 km/hr) and walked around the historic town on cobblestone streets, people watching. We also got into the habit of ending all of our nights (or early mornings) in true Spanish fashion of "chocolate y churros", melted chocolate (not hot chocolate...but mugs of PURE chocolate) into which we dipped churros, basically unsweetened tube-shaped doughnuts. Or, basically, the best way ever to end an evening.
Now I'm back in Rabat, away from those crazy folks in Spain. I'm only here for one more month and it's beginning to hit me that I'll be back in the states soon. That means looking for a job, applying to grad school, seeing my family and friends, sleeping in my own bed! So, a mixed bag.
This year has been a great experience for me and I've no regrets at all for quitting my job and taking off on this adventure. All of these experiences have changed me in permanent ways and I'm definitely not the same person now than when I left. For some people this might be a good thing, for others, seemingly not. Some of my friendships have not withstood this time away and my need to explore myself and my life. However, I've gained other friendships and formed a much clearer picture of who I am in my own mind.
We stayed at a couple of hostels in Madrid, a new experience for me. So, call me spoiled, but I'm in love with the idea of having an actual toilet within the confines of my hotel room and the concept of bunk beds for adults is not something I understand. These two things seem to be the entire reason for hostels to exist. Granted, at an average of 20 E a night, the price was good for a single traveler. I was with a bunch of much younger kids, and I don't think they caught onto the idea of pooling money to get a nice hotel room and sharing it (without strangers) for the same price we each paid at said bunk bed laden hostel. I, personally, would have gladly paid more not to share my bedroom with unknown wackos. I prefer sticking with the wackos I already know.
One example of unknown wacko behavior happened to my friend Tia, who awoke to one of our roommates, a guy from Iran, stroking her face. Um...creepy anyone? Seriously, if I woke up to some crazy dude STROKING my face as I slept, there would have been some serious explaining to do (probably by me, after being arrested for attacking said face stroker). Who knows, maybe he did stroke my face, but got no response since that was the night I tried absinthe and was pretty numb to the world. (For those of you who don't know, absinthe became illegal in the US and most of Europe in 1915 and has only recently been legalized.) Some recent bottlers of absinthe claim 82% alcohol content and I'm would not have been surprised if I sampled from one of those bottles. I think I might have done some permanent damage to my throat, as apparently absinthe is made up of some otherworldly ingredients that have the ability to change the chemical make-up of your body, turning your throat into actual fire. Not just a burning sensation, but it creates actual FIRE in your body. I don't have any idea how those crazy Romantic poets from the 1800s like William Blake used to down the stuff night after night, but I found nothing romantic about it and have no plans for repeat performances, believe me!
While there, in between face stroking and absinthe drinking, I did most of the usual touristy things like visiting the Prado (by the way, Goya is a shitty painter), eating lots of Manchego cheese, chorizo (as there's no pork in Morocco for the most part) and drinking lots of non-Moroccan red wine. Ah, heaven!
Tia, Halima and I went to Toledo for the day on a high speed train (220 km/hr) and walked around the historic town on cobblestone streets, people watching. We also got into the habit of ending all of our nights (or early mornings) in true Spanish fashion of "chocolate y churros", melted chocolate (not hot chocolate...but mugs of PURE chocolate) into which we dipped churros, basically unsweetened tube-shaped doughnuts. Or, basically, the best way ever to end an evening.
Now I'm back in Rabat, away from those crazy folks in Spain. I'm only here for one more month and it's beginning to hit me that I'll be back in the states soon. That means looking for a job, applying to grad school, seeing my family and friends, sleeping in my own bed! So, a mixed bag.
This year has been a great experience for me and I've no regrets at all for quitting my job and taking off on this adventure. All of these experiences have changed me in permanent ways and I'm definitely not the same person now than when I left. For some people this might be a good thing, for others, seemingly not. Some of my friendships have not withstood this time away and my need to explore myself and my life. However, I've gained other friendships and formed a much clearer picture of who I am in my own mind.
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