Prague was definitely one of my favorite cities so far on this trip, and I highly recommend it to anyone who likes any of the below three things:
Architecture
Beer
Pork knuckle
Don't knock the knuckle either. It's freaking fantastic. Imagine 650 grams of pure pork deliciousness (no bones) for a mere $7. Throw in one of the fantastic Czech beers, and you have a delicious way to consume more than one day's worth of calories. Awesome. I'm not sure what kind of pig these "knuckles" come from; they must look pretty funny with giant boneless knuckles, walking around on the farm. Somehow I think the word "knuckle" is mistranslated or something. Suffice it to say, it's a giant chunk of meat and leave it at that.
Besides the pork festivities though, Prague has a lot to offer and so many amazing and beautiful sights to see. I've heard from quite a few backpackers that it's "too touristy," yet at the same time, there they were visiting it. Somehow I think it's "cool" to say things disparaging tourists from *hardcore* backpackers; somehow they forget that they too, are tourists. And, the reason Prague is so touristy, is that it's an awesome place to visit. Duh.
While in Prague, I was able to meet up with my friend Xac, with whom I studied Arabic last year, while I was in Morocco. He's working in France now, doing an English language teaching assistantship through the French government that sounds really interesting to me. I've looked into it and I'm trying to apply for the fall. If not this year, it's something I'd love to check out for next year. I'd get to practice my French and earn a little money, all while living in France, getting to use their healthcare system AND get all of their holidays. I swear there is no other country on Earth that has more holidays than the French. That, on top of a mandatory maximum 35 hour work week, just sounds perfect to me.
I could just marry someone from the EU so I can get a work visa here. Just think. If the US had never won the Revolutionary War, we'd have EU membership too. And neither George Bush would have been elected. And we'd use the British Pound for currency. Wow. That's not sounding like such a bad deal right now, with this economy!
Next stop: Krakow, Poland.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Thursday, August 6, 2009
15% !!!
So I've now visited 7 countries (Ireland, England, France, Spain, Morocco, Italy and Czech Republic) on this trip so far. I've found that each country has its own unique tipping scheme and it can be very confusing when first arriving in a country to remember what is what. For example, in Ireland (I think), if you order at the bar, and only order a drink, no tip, but otherwise, leave 5%. Then, in some other country, it's a personal affront not to tip the bartender. In another country, 10% is customary, unless it's the third Tuesday of the month and a full moon. Then you leave 7.3%. Ok, so it's not really that specific, but it's still difficult to keep track of what is normal and what is too much or not enough, when you change countries every 3-5 days.
After arriving in the Czech Republic, I forgot to ask at what the customary tip is, before venturing out into the city. I met a guy, Matt, who was staying in the same room as me, in my hostel, and we took off to go explore Prague together. After walking around for a while, we decided to sample some of the local beer. We sat down in a beer garden and had a couple of beers each while comparing notes on where we'd visited and where we wanted to go next. After an hour or so, we asked for the check (which is kind of funny when you ask a Czech person for the check). Anyway, we got the bill and our (up-until-then) nice waitress says, "Service is not included," as she puts down the check. So, yeah. She wants a tip. No problem. Also, it's printed very clearly on the bill that Service Is Not Included. Got it. Give the woman a tip. So, we figure out what we owe and see that she's overcharged us for pretzels, as we didn't have any. So, she says just to not pay for it, but again, tells us that service is not included. Gotcha. We throw some money together and give it to her and wait for our change. She takes the money and says, "And for the service?" since she apparently wants to take that money out now, too. I told her not to worry about it, that we would leave her something, just to give us the change. So, the total bill was like 220 kronas (Czech currency) and we put down a 20 krona coin to leave for her. She comes back over before we leave, and looks at us, aghast. She exclaims, "15%! Service is 15%!"
Um, okay. It's at this point that it's no longer as funny as it was before. I asked her if that was a Czech law to leave 15% and she all of a sudden no longer spoke English. "Huh?" she asked. I asked again, if it was a rule in the Czech Republic for everyone to leave 15% for a tip. She put on a puzzled expression and feigned ignorance. So, I clearly told her that she was incredibly rude to demand any amount from us and that she should be ashamed. Then, pulled out another 7 kronas and tossed them on the table. From the coins, she picked out the 5 krona coin and pushed the 2 krona coin back at me. Then walked away. Um, what???? So, that wasn't even 15%. Honestly, there was no rationale I could see behind her outburst.
The two of us left, slightly stunned by her fierce reaction and puzzled by local customs. Later we verified that 10% was quite a good tip (like 20% in the US would be), and she was just a nut case. Glad we got that straightened out!
After arriving in the Czech Republic, I forgot to ask at what the customary tip is, before venturing out into the city. I met a guy, Matt, who was staying in the same room as me, in my hostel, and we took off to go explore Prague together. After walking around for a while, we decided to sample some of the local beer. We sat down in a beer garden and had a couple of beers each while comparing notes on where we'd visited and where we wanted to go next. After an hour or so, we asked for the check (which is kind of funny when you ask a Czech person for the check). Anyway, we got the bill and our (up-until-then) nice waitress says, "Service is not included," as she puts down the check. So, yeah. She wants a tip. No problem. Also, it's printed very clearly on the bill that Service Is Not Included. Got it. Give the woman a tip. So, we figure out what we owe and see that she's overcharged us for pretzels, as we didn't have any. So, she says just to not pay for it, but again, tells us that service is not included. Gotcha. We throw some money together and give it to her and wait for our change. She takes the money and says, "And for the service?" since she apparently wants to take that money out now, too. I told her not to worry about it, that we would leave her something, just to give us the change. So, the total bill was like 220 kronas (Czech currency) and we put down a 20 krona coin to leave for her. She comes back over before we leave, and looks at us, aghast. She exclaims, "15%! Service is 15%!"
Um, okay. It's at this point that it's no longer as funny as it was before. I asked her if that was a Czech law to leave 15% and she all of a sudden no longer spoke English. "Huh?" she asked. I asked again, if it was a rule in the Czech Republic for everyone to leave 15% for a tip. She put on a puzzled expression and feigned ignorance. So, I clearly told her that she was incredibly rude to demand any amount from us and that she should be ashamed. Then, pulled out another 7 kronas and tossed them on the table. From the coins, she picked out the 5 krona coin and pushed the 2 krona coin back at me. Then walked away. Um, what???? So, that wasn't even 15%. Honestly, there was no rationale I could see behind her outburst.
The two of us left, slightly stunned by her fierce reaction and puzzled by local customs. Later we verified that 10% was quite a good tip (like 20% in the US would be), and she was just a nut case. Glad we got that straightened out!
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Milano appertivo
When I arrived in Milan, I had no idea what to expect; I wasn't planning to stay there at all, so I had read nothing about the place. It turns out to be a one hit wonder with respect to tourist attractions. There is the Duomo, a huge cathedral that is definitely cool. However, is this reason enough to visit Milan? Nope. However, if there is one reason to visit, it is for the Milanese version of Happy Hour. I can't imagine a better Happy Hour anywhere and I am glad I got to partake each of the three nights I was there.
The deal is this: every bar/restaurant in the city participates to varying degrees, charging between 7 and 10 Euros for each drink, no matter what you order (mixed drinks, beer, wine) and here's the kicker...there is a free buffet to go along with a single drink order. So, effectively, you can eat your fill and have a drink for as little as 7 Euros. Obviously, some places put on a better spread than others, but with a little looking around, you can eat some really awesome food (and plenty of it!) for almost nothing. This was a great help to the old wallet, and I spent less than 30 Euro a day while there, including my hostel. Considering how much I spent in some other places, this was a downright steal!
It's still not worth a trip to Milan though. If you happen to be there, check it out. But, don't go checking out airfares just for this.
The deal is this: every bar/restaurant in the city participates to varying degrees, charging between 7 and 10 Euros for each drink, no matter what you order (mixed drinks, beer, wine) and here's the kicker...there is a free buffet to go along with a single drink order. So, effectively, you can eat your fill and have a drink for as little as 7 Euros. Obviously, some places put on a better spread than others, but with a little looking around, you can eat some really awesome food (and plenty of it!) for almost nothing. This was a great help to the old wallet, and I spent less than 30 Euro a day while there, including my hostel. Considering how much I spent in some other places, this was a downright steal!
It's still not worth a trip to Milan though. If you happen to be there, check it out. But, don't go checking out airfares just for this.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Madrid museums
Carolyn and I walked around the Prado yesterday during its late afternoon free hours and took in some culture. I´m not big on museums, but did go to the Louvre while in Paris and spent the requisite time in the Prado. However, there is one museum that I love, here in Spain. It´s not big on history or art or culture, but what it lacks in typical museum appeal, it more than makes up for in atmosphere. Of all of the museums in Madrid, my hands-down favorite is the Museo de Jamon. Ah yes, the Museum of Ham is most fantastic. They have the best sandwiches for cheap and 1E beers. A definite score. Standing at the counter with locals and tourists alike, everyone is treated to the sights of curing meats hanging from the ceiling and all kinds of offerings, centered around (but not wholly including) many varieties of Spanish hams. Museo de Jamon is one museum where I will never turn down a visit.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Sunday Soiree
A couple of months before we left for our trip, I read an article in the New York Times about a phenomenon called the Sunday Soiree here in Paris. It began many years ago and was a time for artists and thinkers to get together and eat and drink and talk and exchange ideas. There are still a few long-running Sunday soirees following in this tradition here in Paris. One of the most well known, is at Jim Haynes' house in the 14 arr in Paris, quite close to where I happen to be staying. So, I made reservations and Scott, Allison, Carolyn and I made our way to Jim's house to meet him and 46 other strangers to share dinner and exchange ideas. It was a lot of fun!
There were a few very odd people, a handful of "regulars," people from all over the US, France and some other European countries. The "official" language of the night is English, so it was easy for us all to talk to the guests and I enjoyed chatting with quite a few. Some of our new friends made their way with us to a bar afterward in the shadow of Notre Dame cathedral.
While there, I was talking to a couple of guys sitting next to us at the bar, and then noticed a big commotion just to my right. I turned and saw a woman lying on the floor in the midst of a seizure. It seemed no one knew what to do, but (surprisingly), my First Aid training came back to me almost instantly, even though I haven't had a refresher course in years! I have to hand it to those American Red Cross classes...they really do prepare you for these situations. Luckily, the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes of someone calling, and the woman was beginning to come out of it already. She was upset and scared and I did what I could to reassure her and remind her that she was in a bar and had had a seizure. Her boyfriend was with her and seemed so grateful for the help because I think he had a bit to drink and was a little in shock on top of that.
After the girl was taken away in the ambulance, we realized that the Metro had stopped running, so we were stuck with either walking home, or taking a cab. Before deciding, Carolyn and I decided that the end of a very crazy night called for a crepe. However, no such luck, as even the late-night creperies were closing. We did find a Greek place, still serving up french fries and shwarma though. And, with our love of the French fry, we settled on that, then found a cab to take us back home, marking the end of a very strange night, Paris-style.
There were a few very odd people, a handful of "regulars," people from all over the US, France and some other European countries. The "official" language of the night is English, so it was easy for us all to talk to the guests and I enjoyed chatting with quite a few. Some of our new friends made their way with us to a bar afterward in the shadow of Notre Dame cathedral.
While there, I was talking to a couple of guys sitting next to us at the bar, and then noticed a big commotion just to my right. I turned and saw a woman lying on the floor in the midst of a seizure. It seemed no one knew what to do, but (surprisingly), my First Aid training came back to me almost instantly, even though I haven't had a refresher course in years! I have to hand it to those American Red Cross classes...they really do prepare you for these situations. Luckily, the ambulance arrived within 5 minutes of someone calling, and the woman was beginning to come out of it already. She was upset and scared and I did what I could to reassure her and remind her that she was in a bar and had had a seizure. Her boyfriend was with her and seemed so grateful for the help because I think he had a bit to drink and was a little in shock on top of that.
After the girl was taken away in the ambulance, we realized that the Metro had stopped running, so we were stuck with either walking home, or taking a cab. Before deciding, Carolyn and I decided that the end of a very crazy night called for a crepe. However, no such luck, as even the late-night creperies were closing. We did find a Greek place, still serving up french fries and shwarma though. And, with our love of the French fry, we settled on that, then found a cab to take us back home, marking the end of a very strange night, Paris-style.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
The Irish diet
Now in London, Carolyn and I made our way through Dublin in a few short days and I don't feel like I have to go back there. I liked it well enough, but really, how many French fries can one person eat in a 24 hour period? Well, I think I now have an answer to that question. After eating "chips" at breakfast, lunch and dinner, I have fulfilled my lifelong dream of consuming my body weight in French fries. Sweet. However, to offset all of that fat, I tried to eat away at it with alcohol, and consumed a comparable amount Jameson Irish whiskey. I'm now an "official" Jameson taster, with a certificate and everything. I went on the Jameson tour and was one of the lucky few picked to taste the differences between scotch, Irish whisky and American whisky. I lied and said the Jameson was the best, even though I'm a Jack Daniels girl to the end.
Carolyn has her own stories about black and white pudding...which is not actually pudding consistency, but that's really the least of your worries when consuming it! At least in London I've had a few vegetables (and less whiskey, but not necessarily less booze.) Now that we're on our way to Paris, I forsee the Jameson to be replaced with red wine. It's chock full of antioxidents and therefore, qualifies as a health food in my mind.
Carolyn has her own stories about black and white pudding...which is not actually pudding consistency, but that's really the least of your worries when consuming it! At least in London I've had a few vegetables (and less whiskey, but not necessarily less booze.) Now that we're on our way to Paris, I forsee the Jameson to be replaced with red wine. It's chock full of antioxidents and therefore, qualifies as a health food in my mind.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Budget airlines
My newest travel obsession is European budget airlines. We don't have such a thing in the states and since I haven't spent much time in Europe, I've only used them occasionally. However, now that Carolyn and I are finally getting around to planning our itinerary, I can't believe the deals I've found. I just booked flights for us from Barcelona to Marrakesh, then from Tangiers to Milan for ZERO Euros each for each actual flight. Seriously. ZERO!!! Nada. Zilch. Nothing for the flight. There is a slight catch of having to pay booking fees and for any checked luggage. However, even after that, when converted back to dollars, each flight is only about $28 each. That's ridiculous.
We're paying less than a tank of gas for each flight to go from Spain to Morocco, then Morocco to Italy. I have no idea how they make money and as long as we (and our luggage) get there okay, I don't really care. Maybe they're using the plane as a really big drug mule. Or to transport nuclear waste. Maybe they're shipping prisoners from Gitmo to some other secret location. Who cares? This is what's making it possible for us to see so many places and stay for so long on really limited funds. Sweet. Maybe I won't have to pimp out Carolyn after all.
We're paying less than a tank of gas for each flight to go from Spain to Morocco, then Morocco to Italy. I have no idea how they make money and as long as we (and our luggage) get there okay, I don't really care. Maybe they're using the plane as a really big drug mule. Or to transport nuclear waste. Maybe they're shipping prisoners from Gitmo to some other secret location. Who cares? This is what's making it possible for us to see so many places and stay for so long on really limited funds. Sweet. Maybe I won't have to pimp out Carolyn after all.
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